hw32

[n***@radio-astronomie.com]

Hello,a friend of mine gave me a hw32,unused since 15 years in a
radio club that had stopped its existence ,it was in very bad
condition,with many bad contacts,a total misalignment,and several
burned tubes,I soldered again everything,I replaced tubes,cleaned all
that I could,and after two days of hard work (!!!about 10 hours each
day),all tubes are on,the receiver works well,it is well in the
specified band,with good sensitivity,alignment works well and is
precisely done.But the transmitter gives nothing,the tubes seem
correct ,I substituted them with a hw22 I also have.In you opinion
where should I look?? Voltages around pa are here and correct.
I think I have done most of the way ,but ideas would be welcome.I have
the manual. Thanks very much,73 Alain F1GQB

[Scott Dorsey]

Post by n***@radio-astronomie.com
Hello,a friend of mine gave me a hw32,unused since 15 years in a
radio club that had stopped its existence ,it was in very bad
condition,with many bad contacts,a total misalignment,and several
burned tubes,I soldered again everything,I replaced tubes,cleaned all
that I could,and after two days of hard work (!!!about 10 hours each
day),all tubes are on,the receiver works well,it is well in the
specified band,with good sensitivity,alignment works well and is
precisely done.But the transmitter gives nothing,the tubes seem
correct ,I substituted them with a hw22 I also have.In you opinion
where should I look?? Voltages around pa are here and correct.

You need two things: the schematic and the scope. Start with the output
of the VFO and make sure that you're actually getting any signal in. I
believe on that radio there is a fixed oscillator, a modulator stage, and
then a mixer where the VFO is mixed with the modulated signal.... make
sure you see something on the scope that looks like RF at each stage along
the way.

Just stick the scope probe on plate and grid of each stage in turn.
Then, once you have found the stage where the problem it, it is voltmeter time.
You're apt to find something like an open resistor or a shorted cap
somewhere... especially if you had a damaged tube, look around the stage
where the damaged tube was found because that's apt to be a place where
something else wrong might be located.

I assume the problem is in all modes? Do your diagnosis in CW mode and
get that working first, then worry about the audio amps and modulator.
--scott

[Channel Jumper]

It probably would have been easier to take it all apart, test each an
every individual component and put it together as per the factor
specifications.
Unfortunately the quality of a kit radio is reliant upon the proficienc
of the builder.
From time to time, some genius comes along and decides that the enginee
that designed the radio didn't know what they were doing and that the
could improve upon the design.
Soon, tubes and voltages are substituted and nothing is OEM anymore.
After this, the blue prints for the original radio are no longe
relevant and then you can't even go by the test points anymore.
I don't know what you primary occupation is - but chances are the 1
hours you wasted, working on this radio, could have been spent at work
earning a living, and you could have applied the income from the 1
hours of over time towards the purchase of a more modern transceiver.
Eventually you might get it working, but even then, you still will b
left with a old kit radio that isn't worth what you put into it.

Don't you think that if it was worth something that the club never woul
have given you this radio in the first place?

And that is the problem with most hams! They hoard what they can fin
that works, they want everything for nothing and they want top dolla
for their radio - regardless of it's age - when they go to get rid o
it


--
Channel Jumper